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Blog: MotorMouth by Kris Palmer

The Bolt from Krypton

Wednesday, February 13th, 2008

Conventional wisdom holds that Triumph’s TR6 was built in England. New evidence suggests otherwise–or at least that the rear bumper bolts were not. Given their insane hardness, a more likely source is Krypton. (You can imagine how much force someone from the Superman or Superdotter family could apply with a wrench, or heaven forbid, a breaker bar.)

So some of this Kryptonese hardware got into the rear bumper on my car and, outrageously, rusted. When I put a wrench on the two bolts in question, they snapped off.

bolt1.jpg

Drilling out a broken bolt seemed like a useful blog post. You file the break point flat, rap a center punch in the middle, and start a metal drill bit in the indentation, running it all the way through the remaining bolt portion and out the bottom, right down the center. If you’re a little off, you can angle the drill bit back toward center and correct the offset. Run a few increasingly larger bits through until you’ve drilled out just about everthing except the threads remaining in the bolt hole. Take a fine-pointed punch, stick it between the clinging threads and hole and give it a rap. Gradually, you can peel the threads out in a coil.

But NOT if the bolt is from Krypton. I managed to get some combination of my old bits much of the way through. Then no more. Bought some regular high speed bits. Krypton laughed. Returned them and bought a set of titanium bits. Krypton shook its head.

bolt2.jpg

The titanium were not my first choice, though everyone knows titanium is nearly as tough as Kryptonite. So finally I bought some individual cobalt bits, which I’ve had luck with in the past. One of these did some damage, then seemed to go dull.

bolt3.jpg

The hole is pretty well centered now. Just need to get through the bottom of the bolt and run a couple more bits through it. But a morning’s worth of effort hasn’t put a bit all the way through. It will be a disappointment for me if I have to take a simple drill-out to a machine shop, but when you’re dealing with extra-planetary stuff, that’s what it might take. If the shop that advertises “we can deal with the hardest metals” has a stocky guy with wavy black hair and glasses, who grins a little when I describe the problem, I’ll know I’ve found the right place.

6 Responses to "The Bolt from Krypton"

Sam Barnes says:

February 13th, 2008 at 6:03 pm

I’m guessing you’ve got some sort of stainless steal bolt. They can be very tough, you may want to concider some sort of carbide drill bit. Now don’t laugh but even those carbide tipped ones that you use for drilling masonry will cut some of that stuff pretty good.
If you have the bracket off of the car I would think a machine shop could get that bolt out for you. Good Luck!

Kris Palmer says:

February 14th, 2008 at 9:46 am

Thanks Sam. I thought it might be stainless too, though I’m confused by the rust, if so. Could be the surrounding steel rusting…. At least one hardware store recommended a carbide bit and I may give one a try. What I found in my prior experience with one, though, is that it was hard to drill straight with it. There is a small blade portion of the tip that’s a little wider than the bit itself and this seemed to make the bit want to “walk.” The fact that I’ve already got the hole may get by that.

I’ll give it one more try before I give up. A resto-mod is a big production with lots of challenges. A guy outta at least be able to overcome two rusted bolts!

Sam Barnes says:

February 15th, 2008 at 4:38 pm

Kris, Are you drilled all the way though the bolt? If so, as a last resort try heating the bolt with a torch ( oxy/acc ) get red hot if you can then let it cool, sometimes you can turn the bolt out with your fingers. An old timer told me that about 20 years ago and I’ve pretty good luck with it. That works really well with cast iron such as engine blocks where you have a bolt broke off or a drain plug that you can’t get out. What happens is, the bolt will shrink as cools with the core of the bolt being drilled out.

Kris_Palmer says:

February 15th, 2008 at 4:50 pm

A local craftsman sharpened all my bits, so I’ll take one last crack at mechanical extraction. If the bolt still mocks me, I have a friend with an oxy-acetylene torch I’m helping with a clutch job next week.

I’ll bring the bumper with me and hit it with the “hot wrench.” Good idea.

Mike Olson says:

February 16th, 2008 at 10:04 am

Kris, I look at the pictures and see one thing that could explain some of your difficulty’s, as you have probably felt the it gets very hot, which causes the bit to go dull. In any case you must use oil or something to cool the bit as you drill, if no you get the all to familure SQUEAK

Kris_Palmer says:

February 17th, 2008 at 11:02 am

I tried oil on the first go (the second photo down may show some evidence) and when that got me nowhere, I tried Permatex number 2–a trick that sometimes works to create bite when the bit just wants to spin. A friend with a machine shop suggested that.

I finally got through the bottom of the bolt but even now, when all a sharp bit has to do is skim a little more to widen the hole, the Bolt from Krypton is as stubborn as ever. I tried at least 5 different freshly sharpened bits–regular steel and cobalt–and just the thin collar that remains of the bolt resists the bit as if it were a wooden dowel.

It’s probably a grade 8 bolt–maybe something even harder (who knows who manufactured it–the bolt head lacked the typical hardness-indicating hash marks). I took the chisel I always use to knock loose the threads of a drilled-out bolt, gave it a sharp rap, and a little piece of bolt thread chipped off. Several more raps blunted the chisel point but extracted no more thread. I’d like to run at least one larger bit-size through but it’s unbelievable how resistant it is even to that easiest type of cut.

I’m going to do what I’ve never done before–take it to a machine shop and let them turn the full arsenal of metal fabrication tools loose on it. I’m all for persistence, but this has gone past the point of diminishing returns. I’ll at least get the shop’s thoughts on what planet this remarkable piece of metallurgy hails from.

Thanks for your input, Mike.

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MotorMouth Kris Palmer, freelance auto writer and editor, blogs about vintage cars, the collectible auto scene and just about anything else that goes vroom.

Your favorite: classic car blog, antique car blog, muscle car blog, vintage car blog. Antique and classic cars for sale by owner.

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