As you read this, three tall ships are en route to Duluth’s harbor. The biggest of the three is the Niagara, a three-masted brig with a War of 1812 pedigree. I was in Toronto in mid-June when the Niagara and Pride of Baltimore II arrived, and I’ll never forget it (check out the video here).
Capt. Wesley Heerssen sent me a progress report, most of which is copied below. Tune in for updates as the ships get closer.
Dear Chris,
I thought you’d like to know that NIAGARA is in Port Huron, MI right now. I’m sending this message via laptop from the RAVEN coffee shop in Port Huron (the best coffee shop in the Great Lakes).
We are awaiting a fair breeze. Right now the wind on Lake Huron is gusting to 25 knots and the seas are building to an anticipated 6 feet in height. While this forecast would not be much problem for us upon the open lake where we can sail the ship at angles to the wind, we cannot motor the ship directly into such conditions. Because Port Huron is at the southern-most tip of Lake Huron, we are effectively embayed in the port due to the North wind and the shape of the lake, and seamanlike prudence are delaying our departure.
Fortunately, we anticipate just this sort of occurence each year in the voyage planning process and we allow for this sort of delay when setting the ship’s sailing schedule. So, I fully intend to sail tomorrow morning in anticipation of calmer conditions. Tomorrow night’s forcast indicates a wind shift to the southwesterly quadrant (some west winds, some south, and some in between at various times of day and night). Suffice to say, I intend to and am confident we will make our Thursday arrival next week on time as planned.
There are 32 souls aboard at this time; sixteen crew and sixteen trainees. We are a little light on trainees, as twenty-four is our normal trainee-count. While we have been training novices to sail square-riggers for eighteen consecutive years now, we only recently started charging a $1200.00 tuition. I am not sure if it’s the impact of our sluggish economy, or the fact that we have yet to learn how to market our unique adventure-education/ adventure-travel product, but I’ll not rest until we are brimming with trainees with waiting lists and the whole nine yards.
One day, when folks are better informed about the glorious experience of sailing by moonlight under a 12,000 square-foot press of sails, we’ll have met one of our prime objectives. Our ship is the sleigh, and our crew are the work-horses who pull it. The sense of accomplishment felt by the trainees is mental, physical, and emotional. The task of learning the location and purpose of more than 200 lines (ropes) that control the sails is mind-boggling (at first). There are actually a few rules of thumb and a system of logic that once explained, help trainees to learn the lines and sails rather easily.
As my boss, and mentor Walter Rybka likes to describe it, “These ships eat men, rope, and canvas…the chafe and general wear & tear on the ship and crew are tremendous…the grocery bill alone for such a large crew is enormous when compared to the fuel bill…But the greatest myth in sailing is “THE WIND IS FREE!” “Still, and consequently, the experience is worthwhile and rewarding beyond words” …I’m paraphrasing on the last quote there.
We are all looking forward to the remainder of our sail to Duluth, and certainly to our arrival. I’ll try to drop you a few lines from Sault Ste. Marie, MI when we lock through to Lake Superior.
Best regards,
Wesley Heerssen