I’m fresh from a weekend in Grand Marais, where I warmed up with decadent pesto-shrimp pizza and succulent short ribs at Chez Jude on Friday night. As I scooped up the last of the sage ice cream (delicious, a play on mint), I picked up this little nugget: Judi Barsness, proprietor and chef of Chez Jude, treats guests at Bearskin Lodge on the Gunflint Trail to her cooking on weekends. For Chez Jude neophytes: Barsness creates a changing menu based on what’s fresh and available nearby and what’s growing in her garden out the door (or what was grown; the sage of the ice cream came from her own crop). No surprise she took an internship with a kindred spirit, the famed Alice Waters of Chez Panisse in Berkeley, Calif., a few years back. Chez Jude is open through February 15; the restaurant opens again for the summer season on Mother’s Day weekend. Barsness will be cooking at Bearskin throughout the winter season.