What a glorious sight: Heirloom tomatoes at the Minneapolis Farmers Market

When I saw the gnarled, cat-faced heirloom tomatoes ($4.99 per pound) lined up in rows at the Real Foods stand at the Minneapolis Farmers Market, I quickly consulted my internal calendar. Tomatoes, plump and heavy with juice, in late June in Minnesota? No way.

Turns out the Bauman family — parents Abraham and Rebecca and their sons Titus and David — starts cultivating tomatoes in mid-April under the shelter of a roof — a “high tunnel” is how David described the structure — on their organic farm near Wausau, Wis., skipping the hydroponic route and planting them directly in soil. Along with a wide range of vegetables, the family raises roughly 30 tomato varieties, from familiar ruby-red beefsteaks to a gaggle of variegated heirlooms that beautifully jumble the color spectrum.

I watched as noon-hour shoppers stopped dead in their tracks and asked David and Titus if they were selling “real” tomatoes. “We hear that a lot,” said David. “They may be covered, but they have as much flavor as you’ll find in a tomato in the middle of summer.”

David Bauman, foreground, and his brother Titus, rear, hawking early-season heirloom tomatoes at their busy stand at 6th Street and Nicollet Mall in downtown Minneapolis.

You know what? He was absolutely right. The two large tomatoes I purchased went straight into BLTs, and the results were glorious; the cherry tomatoes perked up a chicken salad. Yeah, I’m definitely going to be a regular Real Foods customer (the family sells on Thursday at the market’s Nicollet Mall outpost and on Saturday at the main market on E. Lyndale Av. N.). Here’s my plan for the Bauman’s tomatoes for the upcoming holiday weekend:

The heirloom cherry tomato selection at Real Foods.

BREAKFAST BRUSCHETTA WITH TOMATO, EGGS AND PANCETTA
Serves 6.

Note: From “Outdoor Entertaining” by George Dolese and Steve Siegelman (Williams-Sonoma, $24.95).

For bruschetta:
6 slices baguette
2 tbsp. olive oil
6 thin slices pancetta
1 c. assorted heirloom cherry tomatoes
1/2 tsp. kosher salt
1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
For scrambled eggs:
8 eggs
1/3 c. creme fraiche
1/4 c. snipped fresh chives, plus extra for garnish
1/2 tsp. kosher salt
Parmesan cheese shavings for garnish
Fruity extra-virgin olive oil for drizzling

Directions
To prepare bruschetta: Position a rack 6 inches from heat source and preheat broiler. Lightly brush both sides of each bread slice with olive oil and arrange on a rimmed baking sheet. Place bread under broiler and toast until edges start to turn golden, about 30 seconds. Turn slices over and toast until second side is golden, about 30 seconds longer. Wrap toasted bread in aluminum foil and keep warm until ready to serve.
Arrange each pancetta slice in a single layer on a separate rimmed baking sheet. Place under broiler and broil until edges start to curl and turn brown, about 2 minutes. Wrap pancetta in foil and keep warm until ready to serve.
Slice tomatoes in half through stem end and place them in a medium bowl. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, gently toss to season evenly and reserve.
To prepare scrambled eggs: In a large bowl, whisk together eggs, creme fraiche, 1/4 cup chives and salt. In a large nonstick saute pan over medium heat, melt butter. Add egg mixture and let cook undisturbed for about 1 minute to warm through. Using a silicone spatula, gently turn over areas of eggs as they set, then fold and stir them into soft and slightly runny crusts, 1 to 2 minutes longer.
To serve: Place a toasted bread slice on each individual plate. Top each bread slice with scrambled eggs and tomatoes. Garnish with pancetta curl, Parmesan shavings, a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil and a sprinkle of chives and serve immediately.

TOMATO AND SWEET ONION SALAD WITH CREAMY HERB VINAIGRETTE
Serves 6.

Note: “A crumble of sharp blue cheese like Stilton, Maytag Blue or Roquefort is fantastic on this salad,” writes author Katy Sparks. From “Sparks in the Kitchen” (Alfred A. Knopf, $30).

For croutons:
3 tbsp. butter
3 slices country rye bread, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
For salad:
2 lbs. assorted heirloom tomatoes
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 Vidalia or other sweet onions, cut into 1/2-inch thick rings
For vinaigrette:
1 pasteurized egg yolk
1/4 c. heavy cream
1 tsp. Dijon mustard
2 tbsp. red wine vinegar
1 tsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 small clove garlic, mashed with a pinch of salt with the side of a knife
6 tbsp. olive oil
3 tbsp. freshly minced tarragon or chervil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Directions
To prepare croutons: In a large skillet over medium-low heat, melt butter. Add bread cubes and stir periodically until they are toasty brown. Remove from heat, season with salt and pepper and reserve.
To prepare tomatoes: Cut larger tomatoes into 1/2-inch thick slices and cherry tomatoes in half. Other tomatoes can be cut into wedges; the goal is visual diversity. Arrange tomatoes on individual plates or a platter, season with salt and pepper and arrange onions over tomatoes.
To prepare vinaigrette: In a medium bowl, whisk egg yolk and cream together. Whisk in mustard, vinegar, lemon juice and garlic. While whisking, pour in olive oil, drop by drop, to start an emulsion. When all oil is incorporated, stir in minced herbs and season with salt and pepper.
To serve: Dress tomatoes generously with vinaigrette, scatter croutons on top and serve.

I’ve found a new favorite shop: The Palate in Stockholm, Wis., on the banks of the Mississippi, about 70 miles from the Twin Cities. The mother-daughter team of Nancy Fitzsimons and Shana Finnegan run this speciality store, where the emphasis really is on “special.” I was there to demo recipes from my cookbook, and what a treat it was to work in the shop’s beautifully designed kitchen. The shop itself fits right into the community, built to look like a bungalow. Inside, it’s open space and a kitchen area that is perfect: Windows that bring in daylight, enough counterspace for working, good equipment (much of which you can also buy at the store). The shopkeepers have an eclectic assortment of cooking equipment, linens, foods and tabletop accoutrements, all of which are well-made and high-quality. Nancy (that would be the mother) is a former home-ec teacher. She works at her Singer sewing machine in the back of the shop making potato bags (for microwaving “baked” potatoes), tote bags, tablecloths and the like with gorgeous fabrics, including oil cloth from France with stunning designs that will erase any thoughts of the stiff single-color oil cloth from yesteryear. Scones and cookies are made daily; produce from nearby farmers is available. Both Shana and Nancy are delightful and chatty, and very knowledgeable about their wares.

The Palate, W12102 State Hwy. 35, Stockholm, Wis.,  1-715-442-6400, thepalate.net. Open Tuesday through Sunday. 

FRESH  STRAWBERRY TARTLETS

Makes 8.

Note: You’ll need either eight individual tart tins, each about 4½ inches in di­ameter, or, as a substitute that will make smaller servings, a standard-size muffin pan.The tart­let tins are available in kitchen specialty stores. Some bakeries may sell these small shells when asked in advance. If you buy pre­made, unbaked pie crust, you’ll need two crusts for eight tartlets. Cut the crust to fit each tin and bake according to package directions.It’s also possible to make one large tart (in which case you will need only a half recipe for the crust). For a 9-inch tart, the eight servings will be fairly small, though adequate. To serve eight with larger portions, you may want to prepare two 9-inch tarts or stretch the dough into a 10-inch pan. For the prettiest presenta­tion, use either a tart pan with a removable bottom or a springform pan.

Crust

3 cups flour

1 cup sugar

1 cup (2 sticks) cold butter, cut into 1-inch pieces

2 eggs, slightly beaten

1 egg white, slightly beaten 

Strawberry Glaze

1 pint (2 cups) fresh strawberries, rinsed and hulled

¾ cup sugar

½ cup water

2 tablespoons cornstarch

Dash salt 

Filling

2 pints (4 cups) fresh strawberries, rinsed and hulled

1 to 2 teaspoons kirsch (cherry brandy; optional)

Whipped cream, for garnish

Fresh mint leaves, for garnish 

Directions for Crust:  In a large mixing bowl, mix flour, sugar, and butter. Beat at medium speed, scraping bowl often until mixture is crumbly, 2 to 3 minutes (if you’ve got some hard-to-break lumps of butter, use a fork to finish them off). Make a well in the center of flour mixture and pour in 2 beaten eggs. (Egg white will be used later). Blend with fork until incorporated thoroughly. Mixture will be very dry. Press dough to ¼ -inch thickness on bottom and sides of tartlet pans. Chill for 30 minutes to prevent shrinkage. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Brush crust with beaten egg white and bake 10 to 15 minutes or until golden brown. Cool.

For Strawberry Glaze: In a medium saucepan, mash berries slightly; then add sugar and water. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from heat and strain mixture, reserving syrup. Return syrup to pan and whisk in cornstarch and salt. Simmer until mixture thickens and is clear, whisking constantly. (If glaze gets too thick, thin with a little water.) Remove from heat. Strain, if desired, and cool. Spread about 1 tablespoon of glaze on each tartlet shell. 

For Filling: If berries are small, use them whole; if large, slice them. Toss berries in kirsch, if using. Distribute berries among tartlet shells. For sliced berries, overlap slices around the perimeter of the tart. Refrigerate and serve within a couple hours of assembling. Remove from refrigerator about 10 minutes before serving. To serve, remove tart from tin. (Push up on the bottom of the tart. Slip the tart shell off the bottom of the tin, if possible, or leave it on when you serve it.) Top each tart with dollop of whipped cream and garnish with fresh mint, if desired. 

Variation: Add a layer of softened goat cheese atop the crusts immediately before adding the glaze and berries. Or beat together 8 ounces softened cream cheese, l cup sour cream, and ¼ cup sugar until smooth. Spread evenly over baked crust before adding the glaze and berries.

From “Come One, Come All/ Easy Entertaining With Seasonal Menus,” by Lee Svitak Dean (Minnesota Historical Society) �