On a blustery night last week, my wife and I were transported to Provence. The occasion was a wine tasting at La Belle Vie, where the small bites were, of course, delectable and the Rhone wines perhaps even yummier.

Domaine de l’Espigouette offered up three rustic reds with soft edges and herbal notes, even a touch of rosemary (!). Most noteworthy was the Cotes du Rhone Villages Plan de Dieu 2005, an absolute steal at $20-$23.

Bois de Boursan’s red and white Chateauneuf-du-Papes each had mouth-filling (and fulfilling) arrays of flavor befitting the multiple grapes in these traditional blends. The wine of the night, and priced accordingly at $75-$84, was the Boursan’s CDP Cuvee des Felix Rouge, a profound effort with endless layers, one of the best Rhone wines I’ve ever tasted.

Two bonuses: The winemakers (Boursan’s Jean-Paul Versino and l’Espigouette’s Julien Latour) were both present and eminently charming. And the importer, Dan Farley of J et R Selections in Michigan, brought along some other tasty French wines, including an almost lush Pouilly-Fuisse from Thilbert Pere et Files Maconnais and an alternately steely and soft Chablis from Seguinot-Bordet.

Distributor Mark Bourget says the wines should be available at France 44, Solo Vino and Sutler’s.

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