Riesling’s on the rise, and Minnesota’s not the only place having a chilly spring. Those were but two of the topics at a delightful dinner last night with Janet Trefethen, whose esteemed winery is celebrating its 40th birthday this year.

Among the revelations from the gracious lady over a typically fabulous feast at Restaurant Alma:

*Other wineries have made inquiries about buying some of the riesling grapes grown at Trefethen’s estate vineyards. Currently one of only a handful of Napa wineries making riesling — its crisp, vibrant “dry riesling” is dandy for sipping or food-pairing —  Trefethen makes a limited amount of the varietal (dry and late-harvest), so it doesn’t have much to sell. But riesling became the hot grape on both coasts a couple of years ago and shows no signs of slowing down. So it’s understandable that other vintners are becoming interested in it.

*The Trefethens decided to call their version “dry riesling” because there was so much confusion over the grape, with the whole “Johannisberg riesling” thing (named after Johannisberg, Germany, btw) and the varying levels of sweetness, including a plethora of treacly stuff on the market at the time, much of it jug wine. The winery is sticking with that name, but it has changed its brand to “Trefethen Family Vineyard” with a third generation, Janet and John’s son Loren, now working at the winery.

*The frequent frost during the last month is wreaking some potentially serious havoc in Napa. Janet pulled out an aerial map of Trefethen’s vineyards and proudly pointed to two reservoirs that she and John had installed eons ago for overhead irrigation in just such events. The wind machines have also been a-hummin’, and Janet said Trefethen’s vines appeared to be in good shape. But she’s noticed a lot of major damage in other fields during her morning jaunts around the area.

*Janet is very excited about her firend Michael Chiarello’s new venture. Chiarello, who founded and made his mark at Tra Vigne and then as a Food Network star, is opening a restaurant called Yountville Resto and a NapaStyle store in the V Marketplace in Yountville.

All in all, a highly entertaining, edifying evening. One last tidbit: Throughout the 1960s and into the 1970s, what is now America’s most popular white varietal was generally sold under the name “pinot chardonnay.” Whatever …

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