Every party has a pooper. Last week — against my nature, some would say — I decided not to be one.

For months I had pegged the Nov. 20 Liquid Assets as a bashing-Nouveau Beaujolais column. Not because it’s bad, although it’s certainly rarely really good, but because it has gotten massively overpriced. Cue that recently deceased dude who did all the movie previews: “In a world where good wine can be found from almost every contintent for less than $10, French producers continue to criminally overprice a 2-month-old wine.” I saw one advertised for $15.99 the other day, which is nigh onto unconscionable.

But a lot of folks enjoy the “event”/party aspect of this simple wine on the third Thursday of November every year, and hey, bully for them. I hope it encourages them  to turn to other, better wine, but if that’s the only wine they drink all year, who am I to say they’re wrong? Especially since I gave it a tepid recommendation as a Thanksgiving wine, because its bright fruit, acidity and lightness actually can work with the myriad dishes at that table.  

Buy it for the novelty, the Nouveau-ness, but not for the second part of the name; go with Cru Beaujolais or even Beaujolais-Villages for that, or a Gamay Noir from the Loire. Most of all, buy it soon, for it’s best (and I use that word advisedly) when fresh.

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