Viva Sagrantino
Posted on January 4th, 2009 – 12:48 PMBy Bill Ward
You say Brunello, I say Sagrantino. You say Montalcino, I say Montefalco. Let’s call … some friends and drink a bottle of both.
The Tuscan wine Brunello di Montalcino ranks with Barolo and Barbaresco as Italy’s foremost high-end varietals. Sagrantino di Montefalco, from neighboring Umbria, is little-known on these shores but, for my money, every bit as tasty and profound as its similar-sounding neighbor.
The sagrantino grape is nothing like sangiovese, producing wines that are a good bit richer and heartier than central Italy’s iconic grape, with more tannins but less acidity and darker berry flavors, plus dusty chocolate notes. It also is possessed of a backbone like nobody’s business.
The sagrantino from the tiny Montefalco region dates only to 1971, when Arnaldo Caprai basically pioneered it. I was fortunate enough to have a stupendous 1999 A. Caprai sagrantino on a 2004 trip to Umbria, and it was one of thse wines that I can still taste.
If you ever come across a sagrantino from A. Caprai or Paolo Bea, scarf it up, almost no matter the price. (Good sagrantinos start at $50-$60, and are a bargain at that.)
There are at least two great ones available here in limited quantities from one of my favorite local distributors, Bourget. The 2004 Perticaia is redolent of dried fruit and cocoa, while the 2003 Goretta “Le Mura Saracene” is a dusty brute that tames itself just enough in the glass. Bioth have finishes that last for several minutes.
These wines could use some cellaring, but good luck keeping your grubby little paws off them here and now. Buon Giorno, the fabulous Italy-only store in Lilydale, should have these and perhaps other sagrantinos. But any merchant who wants (and warrants) your coming back can try to get some for you through Bourget and perhaps other distributors.
It gives me some pause to recommend any and all bottlings of a varietal, but not with this glorious grape.
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