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Whew — and wow

Posted on January 15th, 2009 – 6:28 PM
By Bill Ward

Thank Yahweh I passed on the grappa.

It would have been, oh, about the 20th wine of the night for me Wednesday at La Belle Vie’s Bring Your Own Bottle Night — an annual event that should be semi-annual, or every quarter.

There was a Champagne that smelled and tasted like Cognac, the best rose’ I’ve ever tasted, a corked 1983 Lafite-Rothschild,  my first Kistler single-vineyard pinot noir, some red Burgs that were almost too ethereal for such a rollicking occasion and my first Sine Qua Non wine. Plus an amazing ‘96 Veuve Clicquot Grand Dame, a Chablis that tasted like water next to the other wines of the evening, a hand-etched Archery Summit seriously small-lot pinot and a sublime ‘82 Chateau Grand Puy Lacoste.

Tim McKee cooked up a storm — the quail with foie-gras agnolotti was wicked good — and Bill Summerville was a jovial master of ceremonies, setting a raucous tone at the outset by holding up a boxed wine and asking who had brought it, finally accusing a local distributor, who turned crimson with embarrassment. High comedy.

My friend Joe and I flunked a blind tasting, although if I had gone with my first instinct I would have just about nailed it, on a blend from Montsant, proferred by the ever-personable Erin Ungerman of Cafe Ena and El Meson. She and three friends, including wine consultant Leslee Miller, brightened up our table immeasurably.

Serious wine and people who don’t take it too seriously, a hard combo to beat.

Finally, as my ride awaited, I was offered the grappa. I don’t like the way the stuff tastes or makes me feel the next day — but this was from Italy’s foremost winery, Gaja. I had the wherewithal to say no and instead sip a beautifully smooth, jammy Martinelli pinot noir that Leslee brought. The perfect nightcap to a perfect night.

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