OK, today we’ve got two Italian wines labeled “White” with different spellings (those ever-wacky Italians). Both retail for around $15 and contain some chardonnay but are predominently made from indigenous grapes.

Maurigi Bacca Bianca: This blend of insolia (aka inzolia), chardonnay and grecanico comes from Sicily. It’s lush and lusty, with a great amalgam of juiciness and acidity providing a smooth texture. It starts with a wonderful floral nose and might have the longest finish of any Italian white I’ve ever tasted.

Villa Antinori Tuscan Bianco: The Antinoris are among the world’s pre-eminent wine families (Sassicaia, Col Solare, etc.). This wine has been bottled since the 1930s, with chardonnay added to the mix in the ’80s; it’s 8o percent trebbiano and malvasia and 20 percent chard. The wine is light and stony with some delicate citrus touches, solidly made but … well, kinda boring, like it was made by a committee to be as innocuous as possible.

The clear winner: the Bacca, which would look mighty good the next time grilled seafood is on the menu.

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