We’re starting to see more gruner veltliners on local shelves, and that’s never a bad thing. My Wine of the Week is a fantabulous bubbly made mostly with gruner. This varietal is also the subject of Eric Asimov’s roundup in Wednesday’s New York Times.

These two both come from importer Michael Skurnick (meaning they’re selected by the estimable Terry Theise): 

Ecker Weinland Gruner 2007 ($13 for a one-liter bottle with a screwcup that strongly resembles a quart of beer): Light, lean and bone-dry, this summer refresher is that rare wine that could handle veggies such as asparagus.

Hiedler Loss Kamptal Gruner Veltliner 2008 ($15) : Very minerally, almost pucker-y in the mouth before some lush fruit kicks in, this wine has the slate-like texture for which certain gruners are known.

The winner: The Hiedler, if you like having some fruit come to the fore at some point. Which I do, American heathen that I be.

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